Home > Frequently Asked Questions
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Frequently Asked Questions
Top 10 Most Asked Questions
General Questions
Installation Questions
Product Questions
Questions about an Order
Top 10 Most Asked Questions
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What is the difference between radiant barrier,
reflective insulation, and "radiant barrier paints?"
A radiant barrier and reflective insulation product
are very similar in that they both reflect an average of 95-96% of the
radiant heat that strikes their surfaces across and air space. A
radiant barrier is a fairly thin product that is about the
thickness of a standard business card. A quality radiant barrier
has a reinforcement layer in the middle (typically referred to as a
woven scrim) to make the product strong and tear resistant.
A reflective insulation product is a
thicker product with an "insulating" middle layer such as fiberglass,
foam, or air bubbles. Because of the presence of the small insulating
layer, a reflective insulation product by itself achieves a small
R-Value typically around 1.0. While this R-Value is for the
product only, when installed in certain applications with a dead air
space (sealed cavity with no air movement) a much higher R-Value can be
achieved. It's the dead air space that provides the additional R-Value
and the greater the dead air space, the greater the overall R-Value.
To view our measured R-Values for various applications, please see our
installation instructions.
"Radiant barrier paints" are really not
true radiant barriers as they fall short of the required reflectivity of
a radiant barrier which is 90% or more. They are actually termed
as Interior Radiation Control Coatings (IRCC). There are many
manufacturers of such products with a wide range of reflectivity from as
low as 15% to 80.5%.
As a general rule of thumb for selecting the correct
product:
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If you are looking to reflect or block radiant
heat, use a radiant barrier.
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If you also need to achieve an R-Value (typically
in order to meet specific building code regulations), OR need to
control condensation such as in a metal or steel building, use a
reflective insulation product.
For more information on each of these products, see
the information below found on our website:
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I found many companies selling similar products so
why should I buy from RadiantGUARD?
RadiantGUARD is an established company that carries
an A+ Better Business Bureau rating and is a manufacturing member of the
American Standards Testing Methods. All our products are manufactured
in the USA.
Additionally, our high quality products are widely
accepted in many different sectors such as residential and commercial
building construction, healthcare, steel buildings, and government among
many others. We stock the majority of our products in our
centrally located warehouse in Texas and ship out same day which allows
for most orders to be delivered anywhere in the US within 1-3 business
days. We offer excellent quality products are great prices.
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For an install in an existing home in the attic,
should I staple the radiant barrier up or lay it over the attic floor?
In an existing home, there are two installation
methods to "retrofit" a reflective product in an attic; stapled up to
the underside of the roof decking/rafters and laid over the attic floor.
Both of these methods have been proven effective however, there are
advantages and disadvantages with each.
The layover method is the easiest
install as it takes much less time and does not require stapling or
require the use of a ladder. When installing in this manner, a
breathable (perforated) radiant barrier is basically rolled out over the
attic floor with each section overlapped by one to two inches.
There is no reason to tape the seams or staple the product down unless
you are covering decking and plan to walk on it in the future.
This method will block the heat from penetrating into the living space
below during the warmer months as well as hold the heat this is trying
to escape the living space in the cooler months.
There are some concerns with the layover method which
are based upon the opinion of the Department of Energy/ENERGY STAR
program. The first concern involves the potential of dust
accumulation on the top of the radiant barrier's surface over time and
how this would affect the performance of the radiant barrier. The
second concern involves the
potential for condensation to collect underneath the radiant barrier
although a breathable (perforated) radiant barrier is utilized.
The potential condensation concern is a very rare occurrence and more
probably in the northern climate zones. Because of these concerns,
our preferred method of installation is to staple the product up under
the roof rafters.
The staple-up method may take more time
but the concerns of dust accumulation and condensation are completely
avoided with this installation method. The staple-up method is much more
effective for the warmer climate zones as most homes have A/C duct work
in the attic. By installing the radiant barrier underneath the
rafters, this dramatically lowers the temperature of the entire attic
space keep the A/C ducts cooler.
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Will a radiant barrier "cook my shingles" if
installed under the rafters?
This is a very common myth (intentional scare tactic)
used by competing product suppliers. The answer to this question
is NO, a radiant barrier will NOT "cook" your shingles. A radiant
barrier may cause an increase in shingle temperature by 2 to 5 degrees
Fahrenheit on a hot summer day. Given that shingle temperatures on
a hot date are in the range of 160 to 190 degrees, this small increase
is negligible and does not accelerate shingle degradation.
Although roofing manufacturers were concerned about shingle failure in
the years when radiant barriers were first used, it is no longer a
concern.
Read this
roof shingle temperature study for more details.
The Florida Solar Energy Center also conducted a
study on the use of radiant barriers under shingled roofs and found that
properly installed, radiant barriers do not void the warranty of
shingles.
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When will my order ship and when will I receive it?
How much is shipping?
All products listed in our
Online Catalog are stocked and shipped the same day if the order is
placed before 4:00 pm CST. All orders are shipped from our
centrally located warehouse in north Texas making most orders delivered
within 1 to 3 business days via FedEx Ground service. Please view
this
FedEx Ground map to estimate the delivery days to your location.
We do offer expedited shipping options. To
determine shipping costs, add the desired products to your shopping cart
on our website, enter your shipping zip code and then click the "Get
Rates" button to return exact shipping costs for a variety of
shipping options.
For larger orders, such as radiant barrier pallets or
large bubble orders, we use very competitive freight transportation.
Please contact us
for details and freight quotes.
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I was told that radiant barriers are for new
construction only and cannot be retrofitted in an attic.
This is not true; actually a majority of our radiant
barrier sold is installed into existing homes by either home owners or
through our dealers.
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Can I install a radiant barrier between my decking
and asphalt shingles?
NO, this will not work. Any reflective product needs at
minimum a ¾” airspace in order to work. Without this airspace, the
product acts as a conducting material and transfers all the heat from the roofing material into the attic. We receive calls all the time on this issue and in many cases a potential customer had been told by a roofing contractor that this
installation method would work, unfortunately either the contractor is miss-leading the consumer or he just does not understand how reflective products work.
Please see this page for
more information
about how radiant barriers work.
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Are your products made in the USA?
YES! All our products are manufactured in the United States. We receive
many calls on this subject where people have been told by some competitors that there are no companies selling radiant barriers that actually manufacture in the US and that they are
all made off shore and boxed in the US. This may be the case for some suppliers, but not us. It is true that some of our raw materials are bought outside the US, but ALL manufacturing is here in the USA. Typically the companies making these claims are buying from Asia and want to convince consumers
their products are the same as ours.
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I have heard that bubble products loose air over
time and lose their effectiveness. Is this true?
This is a fairly new myth that was recently created from a competing product manufacture and it is completely false. This is their way to redirect the customer to their foam based product which is significantly more expensive than the equally performing reflective bubble insulation products in the market today.
Our Reflex-Air bubble insulation products are
industrialized products, not basic packaging bubble wrap, that are manufactured to last and maintain the enclosed air space. The independently enclosed bubble layers are sealed with multiple layers of polyester creating closed air bubbles which prevent the loss of air. We are so confident
in our products that we offer a 10 year warranty.
All our reflective bubble insulation products are available in 16", 24", 48", 72", and 96" widths and of varying lengths. We offer straight edge, staple tab and tape tab versions.
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What is the issue with the Fire Ratings?
This is a very popular question so we've devoted an
entire page to the
E84-10 & E2599 fire rating subject.
General Questions
What is a
radiant barrier?
A radiant barrier is made of highly reflective
material and is typically reinforced with a middle fabric layer making it puncture and tear resistant unlike basic kitchen foil.
Unlike mass insulation that merely slows down or resists
the transfer of heat, a radiant barrier BLOCKs the transfer of a
large percentage of radiant heat (at a minimum 90% as prescribed by the
official Department of Energy definition of a true radiant barrier).
Radiant
barriers BLOCK radiant heat by reflecting it back towards
the direction it came as well as REDUCE convective heat by acting as
a blockage against convective air flow.
With a radiant barrier
properly
installed, you can significantly reduce the amount of heat that common
insulation materials merely slow down thereby maximizing the efficiency of
your existing insulation materials making your living space more comfortable
while reducing
your overall energy utility costs.
What is radiant heat?
An example of radiant heat is the heat you feel on
your skin when you walk out from under a shelter into the direct
sunlight.
Exactly how does radiant barrier foil insulation work?
Simply put, a radiant barrier reduces the transfer of a
large percentage of radiant heat in one of two ways:
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a radiant barrier REFLECTs a large percentage of
radiant heat that strikes it surface across an air space back in the
direction from which it came, and
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it EMITs a very small percentage of radiant heat from
its own surface facing an air space.
Noticeably above, the words "air space" are used in
describing both methods a radiant barrier utilizes to reduce the transfer of
radiant heat. For a radiant barrier to be effective in any
installation, and air space of at least 3/4" of an inch must exist on at
least one side of the radiant barrier.
Why is my attic space hot and how will a radiant barrier
keep it cooler?
All materials have some degree of reflectivity and
re-transmission of heat. The shingles, tar, and plywood comprising
a typical roof absorb radiant heat from the sun and conduct this heat
through to the plywood decking. Because plywood decking emits
approximately 82% of its heat, your attic gets hot.
A RadiantGUARD® radiant barrier stapled to
the underside of the decking or rafters would emit only 3% of the heat
from the plywood decking resulting in an overall cooler attic which
means less heat to enter your living spaces resulting in lower utility
bills.
How much money can I expect to save on my utility bills if I install a radiant
barrier in my attic?
Although RadiantGUARD® radiant barriers BLOCK 95-97%
of radiant heat, your utility bills savings will vary because some homes are
more energy efficient than others and because of other
forms of heat flow in a building structure that contribute to the total cooling (or heating)
load. Data varies by region.
Based on
Department of Energy radiant barrier studies,
economical savings on monthly cooling costs have been found as high as 17%.
Is a radiant
barrier the same as basic kitchen foil?
Basic kitchen foil is not the same as a RadiantGUARD®
radiant barrier. Basic kitchen foil is much thinner than a typical
radiant barrier product and lacks the middle scrim layer that adds
durability in the form of puncture and tear resistance that exists in RadiantGUARD®
radiant barriers. Our radiant barriers are almost impossible to tear
by hand unlike typical kitchen foils.
More importantly, the shiniest of kitchen foils only
reflects an average of 88% of the radiant heat whereas RadiantGUARD®
radiant barriers reflect a much higher percentage of 95- 97%.
Also, our radiant barrier foil
insulation products are available in a perforated version
to allow moisture to pass
through reducing condensation issues. Kitchen foil is not
perforated and therefore, traps moisture.
What's the difference between a radiant barrier and the
"so-called radiant barrier paints?"
There's a big difference! A true radiant
barrier reflects 90% or more of the radiant heat. The most
effective reflective paint reflects only 78% of the radiant heat.
Such
reflective paints are NOT radiant barriers as they don't meet
the minimum 90% reflectivity requirement set forth for radiant barriers
by the Department of Energy (DOE).
What
is the "R" value of a radiant barrier?
Radiant barriers do not "absorb" heat like mass insulation
(fiberglass, cellulose, foam, etc). Instead, our RadiantGUARD®
radiant barriers, with their highly reflective surfaces, reflect 95-97% of the
radiant heat that hit their surfaces and therefore, have no R-value rating.
Installing a radiant
barrier between the heat source (sun) and an existing R-Value rated insulation
will improve the effectiveness of the R-Value rated insulation. Why?
Because only 3% of the radiant heat is now hitting the R-Value rated mass insulation
thereby extending the amount of time it has to absorb heat before becoming saturated and passing the
heat into your living spaces.
Do I have to have other insulation in my attic for a radiant barrier to
be effective?
No; a radiant barrier works independently of other
insulation products.
If you currently have no insulation in your attic space,
you will most likely see a greater reduction in your utility bill by adding
a radiant barrier than someone adding a radiant barrier to an attic full of
existing insulation.
This does not mean that you don't need other insulation
products in your attic. Mass insulation, like fiberglass insulation,
blown-in cellulose, and rock wool, work to protect you against conductive
and convective heat flow and therefore, when used in conjunction with a
radiant barrier, give you the best overall protection for reducing the
transfer of radiant heat.
I already have plenty of insulation in my attic. Do I really need
a radiant barrier?
Regardless of how much insulation you have in your attic,
adding radiant barrier foil insulation will save on your heating and cooling
expense, and keep you much more comfortable. Energy savings for heating and cooling can be as much as 17%, depending on a number of factors, including
climate, building configuration, materials used, site, family size and lifestyle.
Quotes from notable studies on radiant barrier:
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"A radiant
barrier system can stop 95-97% of the thermal radiation across an attic space.
If it is not stopped, that radiant energy would be absorbed by the ceiling insulation
and eventually be transferred to the living space below." "The Solar Collector,"
Quarterly Newsletter of the Florida Solar Energy Center.
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"The heat storage capacity of reflective insulation is low.
As a result, it does not store heat during summer days, only to pass it on down
into the rooms of the house from the attic at night when coolness is most apt
to be desired from the point of view of sleeping comfort." "Progressive
Architecture," Nov. 1949, Page 76.
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"Reflective foil retrofitted to fiberglass insulated . . . buildings is demonstrably
effective in reducing heat loss . . . Installation of foil in uninsulated buildings
would show even more pronounced reduction in heat loss." "Effects of Reflective
Foil On Heat Loss in Attic Floors and Metal Building Installations," Northeastern
Illinois University, Prof. Charles Shabica, May 20, 1986.
Are radiant barriers tested by qualified independent testing agencies or
governmental agencies?
The Florida Solar Energy Center at Cape Canaveral has tested
radiant barriers in both small scale laboratory and full scale building models.
Their results indicate that radiation barriers provide significant resistance
to heat transfer.
Current tests conducted by the Tennessee Valley Authority
and the University of Mississippi support the findings at the Florida Solar
Energy Center.
Northeastern Illinois University conducted winter tests
in residential and commercial structures using infra-red thermograph photography.
The photos showed significant resistance to heat transfer over the regular insulation.
Reliable individual brands of radiant barrier products
are tested by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and
result in verified and uniform product specifications that can be trusted
when researching a radiant barrier to purchase.
All RadiantGUARD® radiant barrier products
meet the Standard Specifications for Sheet Radiant Barriers for Building Construction
Applications ASTM C1313 and the
State of California Title 24
Insulation Standards.
Installation Questions
How should
I install a radiant barrier in my attic?
Please see our
Where & How to Install page for the
most common radiant barrier installation methods. Our instructions can
be easily reviewed online, printed, and even saved to your local PC for later
reading.
Do I need a a radiant barrier or bubble insulation for my my attic?
There is no need to purchase and install the more expensive
reflective bubble insulation for your attic space as it will end up performing
exactly the same as a radiant barrier which is almost 1/2 the cost. However,
you certainly can install the reflective bubble insulation in your attic space
but stapled to the roof decking or underside of rafters ONLY. You cannot
lay a bubble insulation product over the attic floor because it is a vapor barrier
(not perforated like our radiant barriers)
and will trap moisture that rises from your living space thereby causing condensation
and potentially causing water damage in your attic space. If you want
to install one of our products on your attic floor, you must choose one of our
perforated radiant barriers: Standard, Premium or Ultima.
Do I need a perforated or solid radiant barrier in my attic?
A radiant barrier used in the attic floor application
MUST
be perforated to allow water vapor from your living space to to pass up through it
and be carried out your attic via your attic ventilation. This is necessary because,
during the winter, if there is no effective vapor retarder at the ceiling, water
vapor from the living space may condense (and even freeze) on the underside
of a solid radiant barrier lying on the attic floor and cause water damage to the
ceiling and any existing attic floor insulation. Why? Because warm moisture
laden air always moves towards cooler air and will condense on surfaces trapping
the air if it is not a perforated material allowing the moisture laden air to
pass through it and out the building structure.
Read more here to determine if you
need a solid radiant barrier.
If I install the radiant barrier partially under the
rafters and partially over the attic floor, will I see benefits?
Yes, you will receive some benefits, HOWEVER, you
won't receive the maximum benefit provided when you fully install to
either the rafters or attic floor. Why? Simply because
you're leaving open spaces for heat to penetrate through the roof and
then through the ceiling to the living spaces below.
When you install to the attic rafters in all parts of
your attic, you block the radiant heat from heating up your attic space
thereby eliminating it from entering your living spaces. If you
install to the attic floor in all parts of your attic, you block the
heat within your attic from entering your living spaces.
Some people gain even higher savings by fully
installing on both the attic rafters and the attic floor. The
radiant barrier on the attic rafters blocks 95-97% of the radiant heat from
the roof decking and then the radiant barrier on the attic floor blocks
95-97% of the radiant heat that made it through the attic rafters location.
Will dust accumulate on a radiant barrier and reduce its effectiveness?
This very issue has been studied by several research
institutes.
An exhaustive test performed by James R. Hall, project engineer
for the Tennessee Valley Authority concluded that "... dust appeared to have
little effect on the effectiveness of the radiant barrier. The percent
reduction in ceiling heat flux was remarkably similar to that of a radiant barrier
with no dust. He stated that a radiant barrier's
performance "...may not degrade nearly as much as would be expected from the
significant increases in emissivity
caused by small amounts of dust."
Click here
to read the report - summary conclusion is on page six.
What size staples work best with the radiant barrier and
bubble insulation?
We recommend using 5/16".
Do I need to tape the overlapping seams when I install
the radiant barrier in my attic?
Taping of seams is generally only done when using a
solid radiant barrier or bubble insulation and you're trying to create a
vapor barrier. We recommend using a perforated radiant barrier in
the attic and therefore, there is no need to tape any seams.
However, a solid radiant barrier or bubble insulation can be used on the
attic rafters if desired and you can tape the seams for aesthetics or to
create a vapor barrier.
Product Questions
Ultima-FOIL is recommended for the rafters but I want to use
it on the attic floor. Is that okay?
Yes, the Ultima-FOIL breathable version can
be used on the attic floor and is ideal if you plan to cover plywood
decking and walk on it.
Are both sides of the radiant barrier the same or is
there a top side and bottom side?
All our radiant barriers are double-sided and exactly
the same therefore, it doesn't matter which side faces which direction.
My rafters are 24" apart. Do you carry a 24" wide
product?
All our radiant barrier are 48" wide and most
commonly installed across the rafters spaces therefore, it doesn't
matter how far apart the rafters are. If for some reason you want
a 24" section for installs, you can quite easily cut an entire roll of
radiant barrier in half with a hacksaw resulting in two 24" mini-rolls.
Questions About Orders
How do I cancel an order?
Please call customer support toll free at (866)
528-8412 option 1. We will assist you in cancelling your order
and issuing you a payment refund.
I received a shipping tracking number but FedEx.com
doesn't show a current status
of my package(s).
FedEx.com will show a current shipping
status once they actually pick up your order from our warehouse and scan it
into their system. If you
currently do not see a shipping status on the FedEx.com website, wait until
the end of the next business day after your order was placed. You
should be able to inquire on the shipping status at that time on the
FedEx.com website.
Can I return any unopened rolls of RadiantGUARD® for a refund?
Yes, please see our
Return Policy
for information about the conditions under which we will accept a return for
a refund.
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